APPROACH--24 miles from the 2,400 foot floatplane lake (west of the park boundary), up Somber Creek, then across the Herron Glacier to a 3,800 foot side valley; which is followed southeast to a 6,300 foot pass which leads to the Foraker Glacier.
TOTAL TIME--21 to 30 days
VERTICAL GAIN--11,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--The route starts on the western fork of the ridge as a knife-edge; the crux is a 75 foot, 60 degree ice pitch, with a vertical bulge; the end of the route involoves 1,000 feet of 50 to 60 degree snow and ice to a 15,000 foot plateau.
CAMPS--7,700 (col); 11,300 (chopped ledge); 14,000 (seracs); 15,000 (plateau).