APPROACH--6.5 miles from the Southwest Fork Kahiltna Glacier landing strip via a 7,200 foot pass, a crevassed glacier crossing and a difficult 7,700 foot pass; then descend and swing north to the route.
TOTAL TIME--13 to 24 days
VERTICAL GAIN--9,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Shattered 5.7 granite and a 5.9 jamcrack pitch on the lower third of the route; followed by 20 pitches of 50 to 55 degree ice which narrows into the crux section of three pitches of 85 degree ice with 5.9 rock.
CAMPS--7,500 (snow shoulder beneath pass); rock ledge; ledge chopped out of ice on rib; above the gully at the end of the steep climbing, near the ridge crest; 15,000 feet (CAUTION: BENEATH SERAC).