APPROACH--2 miles from the 8,000 foot landing area on the North Fork of the Tokositna Glacier.
TOTAL TIME--7 to 21 days
VERTICAL GAIN--4,600 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Ice climbing up to 60 degrees; initial section from glacier to ridge has dangerous hanging glaciers and is very prone to soft snow avalanches after storms.
CAMPS--9,000 (snow rib to the left of the ice cliffs); 11,100 (broad ridge); 13,900 (small plateau).