APPROACH--Half a mile from the 7,400 foot Tokositna Glacier landing area to the base of the 8,200 foot icefall leading to the soouth col.
TOTAL TIME--10 to 16 days
VERTICAL GAIN--5,700 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--There is an icefall to be avoided on the way to the south col; 5.8 and A2 rock difficulties on the first section of the rock ridge; ice up to 80 degrees, occasional vertical bulges; exposed and hard to protect cornices.
CAMPS--10,300 (south col); 12,100; 12,800; 13,100 (plateau).