APPROACH--3 miles from the 7,400 foot Tokositna Glacier landing strip to the 9,300 foot campsite beneath the gully; there is exposure to hanging glaciers; a lower point of the ridge would ensure a shorter and safer approach.
TOTAL TIME--7 to 14 days
VERTICAL GAIN--4,500 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--9,000 to 11,000 feet is exposed to a hanging glacier (which could be avoided by a longer and more difficult start lower on the ridge); up to 70 degree ice climbing and cornice traversing.
CAMPS--8,100 (base camp); 9,300 (base of gully); 11,400 (low point on ridge).