Correction to above rating, the route is an AK grade 3.
The route is a great alpine outting. I attempted it 3 times over 2 trips into the Ruth Gorge. Snow conditions at the base are probably the the key. When conditions are good, there are many rock steps and lots of moderate terrain. Route finding that keeps your attention. 600' of 50 degree snow or ice to the summit, which is a great bivy spot, weather permitting. The descent down the SE ridge requires route finding and is a great looking mixed route in itself. The glacier you descent has objective danger that should not be taken lightly. The serac's above are very active.
This is a somewhat of a commiting route since the 80' rappel into a notch, halfway up the route, is not reversible.
Parties have rapped off the south side of the ridge but this is very avy prone.
Fun route and one of the longer moderte routes in the area. 30 minute approach from bc makes it nice too.
Witnessed by: Charlie Carr