Bring some ice screws and a 70m rope if you have one.
About 400 feet up the canyon from Ripple on the south side in a deep slot is an excellent climb for the beginning leader. This route is also almost always in good condition. It can be led in one pitch, but is commonly broken into two or more depending on the leader's strength and stamina. The first 50 feet is a low angled ice runnel that leads to a bolt and some slings on the left. From there, it steepens up a bit and climbs a couple of steep bulges before it swing around to the left. There is another single bolt anchor below and to the right of the final pillar. To finish, take on the 15 foot tall vertical pillar and rappell from the bolts, watching for loose rocks on the rim of the canyon.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2007-05-16
Route ID: 31634
Have climbed several times, once leading the last pitch. I find it hard to remember particulars, the details are obscured by Ripple, a nearby climb that is more striking. The angle gradually steepens from barely WI2 to a final pillar that some consider WI3. Good for a beginning lead, I think, one could even rap from the bolt station below the crux.