Bring some screws and a 70m rope if you want to do the climb in one pitch.
This is probably the most climbed waterfall in Alaska, and definately the finest looking route in the canyon. Located about one and a half miles up the canyon on the south side, it seems to almost always be in great condition. The gorgeous blue ice seems to always be thick, consolidated and never hollow or candlesticked. Climb the 25 foot lower curtain to reach a sloping ledge and a set of belay bolts on the right, or an excellent tree on the left. The upper pitch climbs a series of steep bulges and steps for about 130 feet to the top. There are bolt anchors on both sides of the notch at the top that make it possible to lead the entire route in one pitch, but it takes all of the rope, and exposes the belayer to the fall line of dislodged dinner plates and ice splinters. Rappell from the bolts.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2007-05-16
Route ID: 31633
This is a great and massive climb. I've was on it several times during my first season, usually following more experienced partners but once leading the second pitch. The intial (~50 ft?) steep curtain leads to a bolted belay on the right. The middle third of the climb is low angle, WI2, rolling stuff . . . after which the ice steepens up again for the last bit. Bolted belay at the top.