About 150 feet up the gully from the southeast corner of the cliff. Start by two large boulders leaning against the cliff. Traverse out left by two bolts to a sawed off telephone pole. Climb up in two or three pitches to the top of the ridge. The further east one climbs, the higher the difficulty, but the upper pitches shouldn't be harder than 5.4. Descend the trail to the west.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-05-01
Route ID: 13394
Replaced 5/16" buttonheads at top of the route with 1/2" bolts and hangers. Replaced the last original lead 1/4" buttonhead with 3/8" ss rawl bolt. Rapped to top of 3rd pitch. Removed 5/16" buttonhead and replaced with 1/2" ss rawl bolt.
Climbed with a party of 4 on two rope teams. Fun little outing. 40+mph winds. Just how we like it. Oh bring a wind proof jacket. Or dont. Expect some loose stuff as always for AK, but really its pretty tame. Fun time with buddies.
I've been wanting to do this route for a long time and finally got on it. We did the new 5.9 start variation that begins at the base of the rock instead of the gulley.
The higher you climb, the better the rock gets. There have been some bolts placed on some of the higher pitches, and some of them have had their hangers swiped. It's a pity as the last pitch that was bolted has about the niced rock you'll come across in southcetral.