Skip to Content

Break In Tradition - 5.6

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Jon Stahl
Rock
Hands and Smaller Gear, one bolt.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Standing on top of Teenage Wasteland, this route is on the buttress in front of you, somewhat to your right. Follows a short finger-hand crack up to slabs and the top. The bolt on this route is the first placed on lead with a battery-powered drill in the Angel Rocks area. There is a two bolt anchor on the top, although as of 5/16/05 only one of the bolts has a hanger.

Submitted by: tarzan420 on 2005-05-18
Views: 454
Route ID: 66732

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Tridogdude on 1992-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Ascent

Dean Case and myself established this climb from the ground up with a battery pwered Bosch drill on lead. The climbing is fairly straight forward but there is a runout or two in here and the rock can be chossy so beware if you take the sharp end and are not used to some exposure.
On the first ascent there was a fair amount of grunge and the footing was dicey but it improved after several ascents.


Added: 2010-02-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tarzan420 on 2005-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Technical crux is at the beginning, but more or less well protected. After the bolt, I had trouble finding any gear, so I ended up running it out up to the top, which was a little scary. I would call this a 5.6R, but I'm a pansy. Not sure that I can highly reccomend it - it's pretty typical Angel Rocks, especially the shitty (in places) rock.

Added: 2005-05-16