Top Rope by looping rope over the top of the pipe. The pipe is very slick and does not provide much friction so wrapping another loop over the pipe is advisable. Due to location of wrap-able pipe, pendulum swing may occur in the event of fall, though se
This climb ascends the east facing aspect of the Realm of Refuse pillar, and is directly under the open mouth of the water dump pipe. Most years this is a 85-90 degree ice climb. This climb is only 'in' on years when prevailing winds come from the west-northwest and wrap the frozen ice around the flowing water that runs sporadically every few minutes, year round. Windward years keep the flowing water exposed making a soggy experience for any climbers braving the route. Realm of Refuse ice is always very brittle due to arctic climate.
By belay. Down climb. Balance on pipe for 30ft traverse to tundra... quite tricky.
Submitted by: wyofreeze on 2011-01-18
Route ID: 107749