Skip to Content

Right Couloir - 5.3

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
med nuts/cams. A few pickets may be worth bringing, and I would recomend a few small angles or lost
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

This route can easily be done in summer as a less technical scramble, althoug, I personally have only done it in winter. Everyone I have talked to has recomended only trying it when there is snow in the gully, otherwise your looking at traveling up loose fractured rock, which does like to randomly fall down. That said, route is fairly easy, 60-70 degree snow up to the col where you go up some mixed terrain, probably low fifth class to some VERy steep snow under the summit. There may or may not be a rappell station on the summit, I think we left a pin/stopper anchor. rappell, downclimb the snow/rock to the col, and decend back to the car, takes a long day and is heavily dependent on snow conditions. Tools are a must, unless your really good at climbing verglas covered rock.

Submitted by: drzaous on 2005-01-28
Views: 589
Route ID: 57149

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: blackdirtgirl on 2004-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I did this route August 8...I think the route would best be climbed earlier in the year when there is still snow in the gully. it took us 3.5 hours to get to the notch. the climbing consisted of very loose very large boulders...near vertical mud, and ball bearing like gravel. we brought a rope but did not rope up, due to rock snagging hazard...and to the fact that neither of us wanted to be underneath the other while climbing. it was pretty hideous. once at the notch climbers can scramble the left trending grassy ramp (unroped) or rope up for one 5.6 pitch of slabby face climbing with marginal gear. honestly, I wouldn't do this route at this time of year, and if I did it again I wouldn't bring a rope. although we did enjoy 5 very careful rappels down the gully. most of the anchors were reasonably sound, though the last pin anchor was a bit manky. I think I'll try the ridge next time...it looked less jumbly. at least the view from the top was spectacular!

Added: 2004-08-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: drzaous on 2003-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Was a fun winter accent, that said I think I would deffinately say do it when snow is in the couloir, otherwiseits just a scramble.

Added: 2003-11-27