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Matanuska Glacier- North Side

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About Matanuska Glacier- North Side:

This route starts on the upper Matanuska Glacier. One can reach this location by either flying in and being dropped off on the glacier, or by traveling some thirty miles up-glacier by skis (a grueling and dangerous ordeal; the Mat Glacier is rather large and gains a fair bit of altitude before it reaches Marcus Baker). There is a hut called the Scandanavian Hut near the northern portion of the glacier which makes a great staging point for not only Marcus Baker, but for the Scandanavian Peaks as well. From Denmark Pass, access to the base of Marcus Baker is gained by traveling up the South Fork of the Matanuska Glacier. This is where details get sketchy. Prepare to cross a series of basins and ramps, then traverse a ridge to the final ice cap that leads to the summit. Popular descent routes are via the ascent route, or to the south down the Knik Glacier. First climbed by Bradford Washburn and company in 1938. It took them 40 days to climb the peak in what was described by Washburn as "hurricane winds." Although its relative proximity to civilization makes this a reasonably short trip in good conditions, this area is renowned for terrible and sudden weather changes.
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Rock Type: UNKNOWN
Type of Climbing: Alpine
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Topo Images

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