A long day for most parties. Ascend to the high point of snow to gain 4th class rock below the south face of the easternmost tower. Climb the obvious, clean looking crack to the top of the first tower. From a belay at the base of the 2nd tower, traverse up and left until a runout but reasonable line leads back to the ridge crest. 5.8R. The rest of the route follows the ridge to the summit, veering left or right as required, and never harder than 5.8. No rappels are required on the ascent.
Descent is via the S.E. Face. To descend, retrace the ascent ridge to a prominent rappel station located just above a short, steep 5.8 wall (you will remember it from the ascent!) Make 5 long rappels to the top of the snow tongue, then either downclimb or
Submitted by: canmoron on 2009-08-05
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 101190
Helicopter from Petersburg can take 2 climbers and gear. Total cost return is ~$1,000. We found the route in very dry conditions which no doubt made our ascent more straightforward. 15 hours camp to camp. A long, enjoyable ridge climb on mostly excellent rock. The views are spectacular, 6,500' down the north side and 3,500' down the south side!