The best way to climb The Classic is to start out on the 5.7 first pitch of Reunion. Climb this to a good ledge with a tree (as for regular route). Pitch 2) Instead of climbing the Classic Chimney, jam the nice hand crack straight up the wall, then continue up the nice 5.9 Crack Lover's variation (only a couple of moves). Scramble up right and belay below a right-facing flake (save a big cam for the belay). Pitch 3) Thrutch your way up the flake, step right to gain a nice 12" wide ramp running up the wall to the right. At the end of the ramp, step across to the main corner. You can climb to the top of the corner where the Flying Buttress meets the main wall, but it's better to go up the corner just a bit and then break right and up in an easy crack, angling across the Flying Buttress to it's far end. Belay here. Pitch 4) Cross the knife edge of the top of the Flying Butt to the main wall and take either the High Exposure Exit (6+) of the Beaver Cleaver (8+) to the top of the wall. All excellent pitches!
Submitted by: steelmonkey on 2004-02-15
Route ID: 9896
Did the first two pitches of Crack Lovers. Start is off width and takes a #4 Cam. Face moves make it reasonable. Second pitch is solid hands to fingers. Good pro. 5.9 at the top. Third pitch is a bump and grind at the start. Too wide for a #4 so bring larger if you don't want to sweat it. Roof above is terrific with one fixed mangled cam above. Short day so exited across the knife edge on top of the buttress at the base of the high exposure exit. Down climb thru tunnel to trees and across ledge to Coke Bottle Rap anchors. 2 60m double raps to base. Gotta repeat w/ other variations for the HEE. Super rock.
The top of the 2nd pitch of Crack Lovers variation after the OW pitch has got some tough moves that would be pretty surprising for a 5.8 leader as it felt 9+ if you know what I mean. A lot of gear fixed on the route for whatever reason. A good line but not a great one because of the meandering.