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Coatimundi Whiteout - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 75
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Standard trad rack: fingers to #3 Camalot. Five pitches.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the classic routes at Granite Mountain. Start up a slab about 50 feet right of Kingpin and climb up a flake that becomes a left-facing corner (harder than it initially looks), and belay at about 120 feet at a bolted hanging belay. Climb the increasingly steep offwidth and corner to a bolted hanging belay anchor (160ft). Climb a short easy pitch to a belay up another 20 feet. From here you can see the AWESOME crux pitch above you and to the left. Angle up and right under "The Great Roof", then jam and smear the progressively harder crack in the roof towards the left edge of the roof (pins and cams for pro). This pitch turns the roof on the left (crux), and ends at a hanging belay just over the roof (the lower the better to avoid rope drag, but it is VERY EXPOSED!!!). Scramble up an easy gully past a bush to another small but easy roof that is passed on the right, and cruise up the final corner to the summit at a triangular boulder. A classic in every sense of the word!

Submitted by: polarwid on 2004-02-23
Views: 1469
Route ID: 41071

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2012-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars cw

did the candyland link-up. lead all the pitches, second is the physical crux, fourth mental, and fifth technical. didnt traverse left and ran out of appropariate gear about 25 feet from the end of the second pitch and continued on sweaty laybacks and elvis legs. 5.9 my ass. got off in the dark and couldnt find the raps, so we walked off. from the top of the climb to the normal trail took 4 hours, why are there no fucking cairns here?! to anybody not familiar with the area i would highly recommend going with somebody who is the first time. i've been there twice and if there is a climbers trail that doesnt disappear i still havent found it. with that said, it was a seriously fun climb with awesome exposure and views

Added: 2012-11-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good fun.

We did the bolted 2 pitch face up to the corner. That was loads of fun, then out the whiteout and the roof which were challenging. after the traverse under the roof I did a tough move down to the anchors there since I hadn't looked at a topo. This actually set me up for nice pictures. Cool route. Loved swinging my legs over at the roof.

Added: 2012-02-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2007-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

direct option pitch 2 (OW), then candyland. This is a real classic.

Added: 2007-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: grippedclimer on 2006-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Did the Candyalnd finish. Supe classic 5.8 on pitch 2. A must do.

Added: 2006-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: redlegrangerone on 2006-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-09-21

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