Halfway up the pine covered ramp toward the swamp slabs is a beautiful set of twin cracks set back in a wide chimney. Climb these cracks to a roof, go around to the left(or right through the roof via the hand crack) and belay at the base of some broken ground. Solo or 4th class through the shattered blocks to a beautiful right trending hand crack and follow this to a belay by a bush. Climb the hidden chimney behind the chockstones above and you are on top.
walk off to the west
Submitted by: steelmonkey on 2007-02-05
Route ID: 9895
First time on this route....seconded first pitch...lead third...solid rock...fantastic pro...go right on roof on the first pitch...great hand crack with good feet....thought the section below the roof was the crux....the third pitch seems so improbable, yet goes...look down and out when you are liebacking around the flake!! ( take a 4 cam)...fantastic...yeah a hard 9 rating is fair....coke bottle rap station is about 100 yards to the east, along edge...cant see em till you wander out to edge just past the great roof area...look for a carin (if youre lucky)..and they are out off the edge from there ( a little to the east)...have you jams down.... do it.... ; )