90ft mostly finger jams, the OW at the top is "pleasantly easier" Loctated in the the approach drainage to Book of Friends; continue up the drainage to just before it becomes a slot canyon. Look for the south facing S shaped finger splitter. Rap from a fixed piece and a bolt. 11+&A0
bolt, fix piece
Submitted by: markguycan on 2006-05-09
Last Modified: 2010-06-10
Route ID: 76474
Redpointed this as a freeclimb. I rate it around 12c so 12+ is probably more reasonable. Protects well with a double set of cams to 0.75 Camelot and singles beyond that. A couple great nut placements can be found low on the crux pitch. A large cam for the OW is optional. There are smaller placements deeper inside. A stellor route! Congrats to the FA and FFa teams on finding and sending this gem.
Grade V, 90ft! Spent the whole day on this: awesome strenuous climbing the whole way. We tag-teamed the FA, lowering off once we took a fall then climbing the route to the last high point and pushing it further. At this point we've yet to do it w/o aid but I expect it will go down in the mid to upper 5.12 range. 07/07 heard report that an free ascent was completed and rated it at 12d...