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Linger Fickin' Good! - 5.12d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
Quadruple set of TCU's, Doubles to #3.5Camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


90ft mostly finger jams, the OW at the top is "pleasantly easier" Loctated in the the approach drainage to Book of Friends; continue up the drainage to just before it becomes a slot canyon. Look for the south facing S shaped finger splitter. Rap from a fixed piece and a bolt. 11+&A0

Descent Options:

bolt, fix piece

Submitted by: markguycan on 2006-05-09
Last Modified: 2010-06-10
Views: 1017
Route ID: 76474

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackmd on 2009-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent crack

Redpointed this as a freeclimb. I rate it around 12c so 12+ is probably more reasonable. Protects well with a double set of cams to 0.75 Camelot and singles beyond that. A couple great nut placements can be found low on the crux pitch. A large cam for the OW is optional. There are smaller placements deeper inside. A stellor route! Congrats to the FA and FFa teams on finding and sending this gem.

Added: 2009-10-22

  Difficulty 5.11d A0
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2007-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Woof woof

I hung all over the top. It is strenuous and beyond me. I heard Rodman lead it clean and it may be 13. He should know.

Added: 2007-09-17

  Difficulty 5.12d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: markguycan on 2006-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Grade V, 90ft! Spent the whole day on this: awesome strenuous climbing the whole way. We tag-teamed the FA, lowering off once we took a fall then climbing the route to the last high point and pushing it further. At this point we've yet to do it w/o aid but I expect it will go down in the mid to upper 5.12 range.
07/07 heard report that an free ascent was completed and rated it at 12d...

Witnessed by: hawthorne5630
Added: 2006-05-09