Bring that #4 for the last ofwidth pitch (pitch 4). Each belay has at least one bolt (big glue-in ey
Just before the saddle at the top of the trail head to the left and skirt along the big pillar until you come to the smaller detached split pillar that looks like a mace. Thats the mace. 5 Pitches with a gut wrenching finish, a step across/mantle to top out, then you jump (or rap) back! Its almost worth bringing an extra pair of shoes for this, its about 5 feet forward and 10 feet down. See a guide book or ask at canyon outfitters for the in depth beta.
Submitted by: steelmonkey on 2003-11-19
Route ID: 9903
lol, if I had read Radek's description of p4 ahead of time I prob would have just aided it...but just kept telling myself 5.9+ and got it...funny how less beta makes you try harder sometimes....it is cruxy for about 2-3m...never read anything about the route and my partner was a local from Flag looking for a different climb so we only took to 4". It actually works though..you get a bomber 3" deep in (double sling it) versus having to rely on the spinner hanger on P4 covering the exposed crux move. Led that step over to the next tower as well, since my partner had done all of it before....neat wicked little tower climb. First climb in Sedona. Out for more today.
This was my 500th unique climb and it certainly was different than the 499 that preceeded it. Anyone else think that the crux was 20 feet before the bolt in the overhanging handcrack? At 5'5" I was just barely able to get the flake to get across. A very rewarding route and I definitely see how it scares off newcomers to Sedona!
A fun climb with some tough spots. the first few moves of Pitch 3's traverse had nice exposure. Pitch 4 starts off fun with some stemming but ends with a very difficult, steep hand crack section that had me cursing like a sailor. Beautiful views, and a good route to do for Doug's 500th climb.