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Original Route - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Dan Bingham, G. Parker
Rock (Trad)
nuts, cams to #5 (doubles if you like more gear)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Approach via Soldier Pass Trailhead/parking. Head north on the rough road to signed Tea Cup Trail (@ 10 min) and turn west. Continue on trail until you arrive at a bunch of boulders. Look for a worn rough path heading north to the notch between Coffee Pot Rock and the mesa behind it; the start of route is in the smaller notch to the south/left. Make your way to the start of the chimney through rough manzanita shrubs. Pitch 1 Grovel up the wide squeeze to the notch (5.9, 180') Bolted belay. Pitch 2 Rappel down and walk climbers right to base of short wall; scramble to next ledge up. (Class 2, @ 50' to short wall) Pitch 3 Mount the short crack and gain next ledge. You can go left for short burly 5.8 moves to traversing ledge (or right to harder thin start with bulge that felt like 10+). Traverse right on ledge to bolted anchors on southwest face of tower. (5.8/5.10+, 25' ; traverse right 50'). Bolted belay. Pitch 4 Up a short crack to an easy traverse slightly right on low angle runout terrain to a ledge with a large bridge of rock. (5.9-, 40') Tie off rock bridge for anchor. Pitch 5 Go right a bit around a corner and either finish on central face or go leftward to northwest corner of summit. Central face is 5.7R and NW buttress is 5.8- but protected (use caution on loose rock) (5.7/5.8, 160') Rap chains on south side (rappel SW to 4th class ledge and walk to north side to chains.

Descent Options:

Rappel North side with double 60m ropes. All bolted anchors.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2013-12-04
Last Modified: 2014-04-11
Views: 763
Route ID: 114682

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Chimney goodness

We did a conga line with six folks climbing. Fun but bit chilly.

Added: 2013-12-04