From Hwy 89, turn north on Dry Creek Road until you reach FS Road 152 (on the right) and set your odometer to zero. Drive 1.6 miles on rough dirt road to a small pullout on the right. A faint trail takes you up and left of the ridge leading to the base of the route. It is located opposite Devils Bridge. Great climb with a really cool traverse pitch and some un-Sedona like slab work. 4 pitches, #1 friction slab, #2 traverse, #3 vertical slot canyon, #4 hands/friction slab. Anchors for last pitch are straight up, then traverse right to rappel anchors.
If anyone thinks the first pitch is any harder than 5.6/5.7 they are a serious weenie. It is called slab climbing people. This isn't your 5.easy jug haul in the local gym. Use your feet!
double 60m rope rappels
Submitted by: steelmonkey on 2007-01-04
Last Modified: 2009-03-27
Route ID: 46696
Lots of fun, soft for the grade and over-hyped...but then again, what route can live up to this amount of publicity.
Drove partway, then parked and walked 15-20 minutes on the road in order to save our compact car. Note that the unusually large tree mentioned in "Weekend Rock Arizona" at the start of the approach is no longer there.
I dropped a heavily used and bent wire #4 DMM stopper at the start of pitch 3. It landed somewhere around the tree down bottom. I got a mega reward for this sentimental piece of gear. Instead of finding it, I did unearth a ton of biners, hexes, and other nuts. I miss our old friend Smithers (yes, we named it).
because I thought the 1st pitch was way harder than 5.7 and I have done a good bit of slab work, mostly on granite though. However it had just recently rained and the whole route felt sandy so take that for what it is worth. Really exciting second pitch with great crack climbing on the 3rd makes for a good outing. The slab detracts though...