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The Big Corner - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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1 set of friends. 1 set of aliens.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Begin in a right facing corner with a drilled pin about 20 feet up. Pitch 1 is pretty forgetful. Pitch 2: Head straight up the right facing corner. The crack thins out just before the anchors, but the abundant face holds make it way easier than it looks. Not 10+. Nevertheless, a fun pitch.

Submitted by: rmiller on 2004-03-26
Views: 643
Route ID: 50516

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7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Big Corner

The second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.

Added: 2014-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-10-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Real fun

Did it as a 200ft TR after Mars Attacks. The first pitch has some iffy rock but would clean up in an easy afternoon. A bolt protects what I thought was the 5.10 crux on the second pitch. Face climb out right of the crack and use feet to push into the corner to make the last 20 feet manageable.

Added: 2010-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: stamplis on 2008-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars _

1st pitch is ugly - my wife tore a huge chunk off which almost hit me. The 2nd pitch is pretty cool, though. The last 20' to the anchors is a spectacular fingers lieback.

Added: 2008-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: crackmd on 2007-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Aesthetic corner

Would have lead but daylight was running out after having done Mars Attacks. Stemming the finish section seemed to take the fingersize issue out of the picture. I lean more towards the harder side of 5.10.

Added: 2007-11-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: claramie on 2006-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

My best trad flash to date!! Is it flash or onsight if you scoped the route out on rappel before climbing? Probably flash. Damn Ron I know you're strong but I'll consider this 10d for my personal satisfaction. I've never deadpointed on a finger tip crack before but I went for broke and made it!!!

Added: 2006-04-29

... Read all 7 ascent notes