Begin in a right facing corner with a drilled pin about 20 feet up. Pitch 1 is pretty forgetful. Pitch 2: Head straight up the right facing corner. The crack thins out just before the anchors, but the abundant face holds make it way easier than it looks. Not 10+. Nevertheless, a fun pitch.
Submitted by: rmiller on 2004-03-26
Route ID: 50516
The second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.
Did it as a 200ft TR after Mars Attacks. The first pitch has some iffy rock but would clean up in an easy afternoon. A bolt protects what I thought was the 5.10 crux on the second pitch. Face climb out right of the crack and use feet to push into the corner to make the last 20 feet manageable.
Would have lead but daylight was running out after having done Mars Attacks. Stemming the finish section seemed to take the fingersize issue out of the picture. I lean more towards the harder side of 5.10.
My best trad flash to date!! Is it flash or onsight if you scoped the route out on rappel before climbing? Probably flash. Damn Ron I know you're strong but I'll consider this 10d for my personal satisfaction. I've never deadpointed on a finger tip crack before but I went for broke and made it!!!