Skip to Content

Crimson Crescent - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
M. Rangel, M. Geikenjoyner
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
5
recommend: med nuts + single set to #4; lg hex optional. 14 quickdraw/runners
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.43/5

Description:

It's 5 pitches total up the South face of SugarLoaf(aka Jap Head). Approach (30min)from Soldier Pass trailhead, turn R on Jordan trail, then fork L on Ciebola Pass trail. 100yrds from the fork cross one drainage then follow the next one to slick rock up to the base. Route begins on the right side of a large buttress forming a toe on the east face. P1: 5.10 direct steep slabby start then 5.9 corner (bolt); or do the runout 5.6 traversing start to miss the crux at the bottom. Ascend easy cracks to a bolt at the end, stay left to gain the ledge. P2:Sporto! (11 clips) start uses hidden holds on left arete; crux (5.11a) near finish, think thin slab (optional green cam for finish but nobody takes one). P3: Traverse right about 20' to varied cracks with 3 bolts in between to the bottowm of the crescent (5.9). P4: Great pitch starts as a wild arching dihedral that turns into a roof. Up face (large hex helps) to bolt then gear in dihedral until it becomes a roof then pass 4 bolts and a cam at the end. Belay at end of roof. Pitch 5: up slab to bolt then crack to top (5.8) Double rope rap or single 70m. Second rappel anchor is not on the route. Stay right to reach third rap anchor.

Descent Options:

double ropes or single 70m

Submitted by: markguycan on 2009-06-27
Views: 943
Route ID: 63786

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos (See all 13 photos)

8 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2011-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A serious climb for the East Coast Gunks Climber

Ok, I am from the east coast. I have only climbed Sedona sandstone 1 other time (The Mace). I started up the first pitch with typical east cost (ur...solid rock) technique. I broke off more holds in the first 50 feet than I have ever broken in my lifetime of climbing. Manny advised me to rethink my climbing. Ok, pitches 2-5, I really was very deliberate about my climbing and only broke 3 or 4 holds along the way. This climb is a serious climb. It's got rock that is decaying, it's seldom traveled (dust, dirt, pebbles) on key holds and it's hard. Pitch 2 is a well bolted sport climb, with the crux at the last bolt. Recommend a piece of gear between the last bolt on the climb and the anchors. Pitch 3 is happy, easy, reasonable pro with bolts protecting some cruxier areas. Pitch 4 is the money pitch. You climb a tight corner then, hold your breath and begin a very airy traverse under a soaring roof. It's protected by well spaced bolts, but even as a second it's scary climbing. The crux of the traverse is getting the nerve to commit to moving between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. The holds are dust covered and feel like crap until you actually throw your feet on to the smooth slab. Two quick moves with better hands gets you to the bolt and easier traversing. The 4th pitch ends at a hanging belay. Manny added a second bolt, so it's really secure. The final pitch is a quick trip up to the top (almost). It was amazingly windy and cold. I was shivering while belaying Manny on the 4th pitch and while belaying the 5th I was glad to be tightly bolted, the wind was gusting and I felt like I was going to be blown off the rock. We finished up quickly, didn't linger at the top and rapped. Manny did a lot of cleaning on rappel, hopefully it will feel less chossy to the next climbing party.

All in all, a super fun climb, very serious, requiring deliberate hand/foot work.

Added: 2011-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: markguycan on 2009-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars sporty route

Dang Manny, all the bolts and anchors you added to make the masses happy, have really altered the from the FA experience: ground up, drillin off hooks, manky stances while cleaning lots of choss on a couple of cold windy winter days. you can probably leave the rack behind; bring draws and a few passive pieces!

Added: 2009-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2009-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun warm day

Joe Garcia and I began at 1 pm and finished near 530 pm; clouds and little bit a rain made us cringe just a short while. It turned out nice and cool! We also added some bolts and a new anchor at the end of the roof to reduce rope drag. Hope this helps.

Added: 2009-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: SethDyer on 2006-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Ascent note

This poorly equipped route takes a nice line up Japhead, but unfortunately the climbing is mostly on choss. If one were actually to clean the route of all the loose rock, friable flakes and sugar rock, there wouldn't be much left to climb. Also, despite having a number of bolts, the climbing is necky and committing at times and some of the anchor placements leave you exasperated. Nice summit.

Added: 2006-12-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markguycan on 2006-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great moves, well protected

I seem to find myself doing this one every fall, great route to do as it starts getting cool.

Added: 2006-11-27

... Read all 8 ascent notes