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Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Central : Sedona Spires : Long Canyon : Tip Toe Through The Two Lips

Tip Toe Through The Two Lips - 5.10a

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Standard Rack with two #4's and one #5 camalot. Long runners. (Additional #4 and #5 are very option
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3 Pitches- Pitch 1: 120ft of varied hands in corner. First 40 feet has poor pro and is dirty and loose, but great after that. Bolted belay. Pitch 2: 50ft or so of 5.9 squeeze, protects well with two #4's and one #5 Camalot. No bolts at top of pitch two. Sling huge chockstone in a large alcove for belay or can continue up another 40 feet to a stance where you can get in good protection for belay. Pitch 3: 50/90 feet. Nice 5.8/5.9 off-width and chimney with huecos. Protects with various cracks hidden in chimney. Rap off the back of the tower. Anchors are two drilled angles on the back edge of the right hand tower. Halfway down the north side is another set of rap anchors so a single 60m rope and 2 raps will get you to the ground. (If you are a little thick in the middle this route may not be for you as you may get irretrievably caught in the "Harding Slot") If you use the 2002 edition of Bloom's guide don't expect to see 3 distinct fingers from the Long Canyon trail as the drawing shows. Use the Photo to locate the tower.

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2006-03-20
Views: 615
Route ID: 47006

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: ullr on 2004-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Squeeeeeeeeeeeze your way to glory. Body thrash.

Added: 2004-01-08