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Shangri-La - 5.12d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Bloom, Rodman
Rock (Trad)
Blue aliens to #4 camalot. Heavy on finger size.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


A superb corner system on incredibley good sandstone. Pitch 1-Right facing dihedral and arete. Protects with blue TCU's. 50ft, 12a. Pitch 2-2 bolts then an obtuse right facing layback flake. yellow alien to .5 Camalot. 50ft, 11d. Pitch 3-7 bolts. can be supplemented with .5 camalot, .75 camalot, and yellow alien. (This pitch can go with gear and it is good. In fact, it may go soon and the bolts will likely disappear.) 80 ft, 12d. Pitch 4-Left facing corner. Blue alien to .75 camalot. Heavy on finger sizes. 11b, 70 ft. Pitch 5-Left facing corner to overhanging cups which can be climbed like a chimney. .5 camalot to #4 camalot. 70ft, 11c.

Descent Options:

Rap with either 1 or 2 ropes.

Submitted by: rmiller on 2008-11-10
Views: 601
Route ID: 96954

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackmd on 2009-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route in Northern AZ?

I think so. I suggest combining the first 3-pitches (yes including the crux) into a mega-pitch. There are multiple rests and with liberal use of slings can be done without significant rope drag. Combine the last 2-pitches and you've done this route in 2-pitches.

11/17/09-lead 3rd pitch clean on gear without clipping bolts.
1 #000 BD
2 #00 BD
6 #0 BD
1 blue alien
1 green alien
1 0.4 BD
1 0.5 BD
1 0.75 BD
Gear was solid. In fact, I took a fall on my first gear attempt. I agree with Ronnie that some consideration should be given to whether those bolts should remain.

Added: 2009-10-20

  Difficulty 5.12d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rmiller on 2008-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally

The 3rd pitch takes good gear the entire way. It should be sent and the bolts pulled.

Added: 2008-11-09