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Epitaph - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
Gear: single set of small sizes, set nuts, 2: #1, #2, #3.5, & 1 #4 & #4.5, AND 3-5 #3's
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Most people do the first 3 pitches although there evidently are 6 total -the upper being easier but VERY run-out. Fun route and one of the easiest I've done in Sedona! P1: corner to gear belay on a good stance. P2: leiback flakes to a pin and bolt belay below the roof. P3 up then across under the roof with good crack but poor feet, then turn the roof and up corner another 25t to bolted rap anchor. While there are a few moves which might be 10- most of the climbing is very moderate- probably only 5.7 or 8 with ample opportunities for rests. The rock quality is better than I expected. Approach from Schnebly hill road- Cow Pies trail, contour beyond Technicolor Corner to saddle the to west face of Flying Buttress- pretty easy approach <1hr.

Descent Options:

rap twice with 2 ropes back to your packs, the second rap station would make a decent TR for an unprotected corner/face climb.

Submitted by: markguycan on 2010-05-14
Last Modified: 2010-05-17
Views: 1278
Route ID: 104795

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Epitaph

With Matt K. from Houston. Led all pitches. Good Climb. The first two pitches go real quick. The roof is quite strenuous for 5.9. I had four C4 3's and 2 4's. Would prefer 4 of each next time...along with 3- 2's and a 5. Need a dozen slings, several double length so you can turn the roof and keep going the last 30'. Need a single rack for that section. MP's approach beta leaves something to be desired. Will add to SP by the end of next week, look for some additional beta there.

Added: 2012-10-04

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markguycan on 2010-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars goood!

easier than I expected

Added: 2010-05-15