Skip to Content

Queen Victoria - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.90/5 Average Rating : 3.90 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Standard Rack to number 4 cam. I used small hexes on Pitch 1
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.57/5
  Rock Quality 2.86/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 3.86/5

Description:

Queen Victoria is a delicate climb with an awesome summit. This formation is located in the Moose Butte area. It is clearly in view from Schnebly Hill Road. This is a good climb that features chimney, stemming, crack and arm bar move, bring a number 4! Just beware of loose rock. From the summit you will see Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona. To get there: Drive 1.9 miles on Schnebly Hill Road. Pull off the road on the left. The approach is done from this parking pull off area. There is a river wash just below. Head west on the trail, you will soon see the Pointed Dome formation and Queen Victoria formation, head up. You will have a large drainage on your left most of the hike up. This is a little back country 45-50 minute approach, so look listen and be aware. Enjoy the experience. Gear: Standard Rack to a number 4 cam.

Descent Options:

Two ropes. Descent make one single rope rappel from summit anchor to a pair of beefy chains. Two rope rappel to the very bottom.

Submitted by: alleycat on 2007-03-12
Last Modified: 2007-03-20
Views: 2474
Route ID: 58228

Topo Images

Most Recent Photos

11 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2013-12-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb!

Beautiful scenery, pretty easy approach and good gear the whole way. Separate rap line means you can climb up after another party and not be too congested.

Approach: 1.9 miles up the road seems like you've gone too far as you lose sight of the tower but it does make it easier. We stopped at around the 1.8mi mark and walked across the creek and uphill about 50ft to gain the trail. The trail is VERY obvious and has lots of mtn bike tracks so if you're not on a really good trail, you're not on the right approach. This trail wanders back west for a little while before starting to switchback uphill towards the notch.

One 60m rope is definitely enough. On the second rap, I lowered my wife first to make sure she would make it down and then rigged our single line for rappell. With rope stretch, I was firmly on the ground with about 1-2 ft leftover. If your rope was short (or if mine is a couple feet long?), the downclimb would be very easy and safe.

As for the wide crack question - we took a #4 camalot but no #5. It was adequate but a fall at the wrong time could have been bad. I would suggest bringing a second #4 or a #5 if your going to be climbing near your limit or if you want to be on the safe side.

Added: 2013-12-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Queen Victoria

Was going to solo on-site, but Stacy was up for a quick climb before we left Sedona after a great fall weekend stay in Sedona. 3 hrs car to car early in the morning (bit chilly in Oct, takes a while for the sun to hit it) and Stacy is not a fast hiker or climber. Cute route, definitely worth doing. Very clean and well traveled, solid solo opt for Sedona. Epitaph across the way is an incredible 3 pitch must do.

Added: 2012-10-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trevzilla on 2012-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Queen Victoria

A really fun climb! I enjoyed pitch 1 the most simply due to the length and sustained climbing, however pitch 3 had the most fun move. I liked the exposure there. All in all a great climb, and a fantastic summit.

Added: 2012-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: andrea37 on 2011-03-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Beautiful views

Nice 3 pitch lead to get your head back in the game. P2 OW was a one move wonder (I'm 5'6). #4 is all you need to protect it. P3 was fun, too. Really beautiful views at the summit.

Added: 2011-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: happiegrrrl on 2010-12-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n/a

Followed Tim(Pensylenvy). I couldn't get an arm bar in the OW and - as any Gunkie flummoxed by a gaping maw of a crack would - laid it back. The second cruxy section was quite fum.

Added: 2010-12-06

... Read all 11 ascent notes