Queen Victoria is a delicate climb with an awesome summit. This formation is located in the Moose Butte area. It is clearly in view from Schnebly Hill Road. This is a good climb that features chimney, stemming, crack and arm bar move, bring a number 4! Just beware of loose rock. From the summit you will see Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona. To get there: Drive 1.9 miles on Schnebly Hill Road. Pull off the road on the left. The approach is done from this parking pull off area. There is a river wash just below. Head west on the trail, you will soon see the Pointed Dome formation and Queen Victoria formation, head up. You will have a large drainage on your left most of the hike up. This is a little back country 45-50 minute approach, so look listen and be aware. Enjoy the experience. Gear: Standard Rack – to a number 4 cam.
Two ropes. Descent make one single rope rappel from summit anchor to a pair of beefy chains. Two rope rappel to the very bottom.
Submitted by: alleycat on 2007-03-12
Last Modified: 2007-03-20
Route ID: 58228
Beautiful scenery, pretty easy approach and good gear the whole way. Separate rap line means you can climb up after another party and not be too congested.
Approach: 1.9 miles up the road seems like you've gone too far as you lose sight of the tower but it does make it easier. We stopped at around the 1.8mi mark and walked across the creek and uphill about 50ft to gain the trail. The trail is VERY obvious and has lots of mtn bike tracks so if you're not on a really good trail, you're not on the right approach. This trail wanders back west for a little while before starting to switchback uphill towards the notch.
One 60m rope is definitely enough. On the second rap, I lowered my wife first to make sure she would make it down and then rigged our single line for rappell. With rope stretch, I was firmly on the ground with about 1-2 ft leftover. If your rope was short (or if mine is a couple feet long?), the downclimb would be very easy and safe.
As for the wide crack question - we took a #4 camalot but no #5. It was adequate but a fall at the wrong time could have been bad. I would suggest bringing a second #4 or a #5 if your going to be climbing near your limit or if you want to be on the safe side.
Was going to solo on-site, but Stacy was up for a quick climb before we left Sedona after a great fall weekend stay in Sedona. 3 hrs car to car early in the morning (bit chilly in Oct, takes a while for the sun to hit it) and Stacy is not a fast hiker or climber. Cute route, definitely worth doing. Very clean and well traveled, solid solo opt for Sedona. Epitaph across the way is an incredible 3 pitch must do.
A really fun climb! I enjoyed pitch 1 the most simply due to the length and sustained climbing, however pitch 3 had the most fun move. I liked the exposure there. All in all a great climb, and a fantastic summit.