Located just east of the SE arete on Flyingbuttres: stellar liebacking/jam corner to thought provoking face. 5.8approach pitch, 5.10+money pitch, 5.10- spicey face. 2 ropes to rappel.
Approach: 30min via "cow pies trail" off Schnebly hill rd, contour along the S face toward the saddle between Flyingbuttress and the Teapot.
Submitted by: markguycan on 2005-02-28
Route ID: 63416
With JC from Flag. Nice mid-week excursion in Sedona. We combined Technicolor with Arch Enemy for a decent day out. The 2nd pitch has a short, but punchy crux, but felt easier overall than the 2nd pitch Epitaph which I think they have at 5.9+. Definitely a worthy pitch.
Jesus Harold Christ, DO NOT follow Bloom's Epitaph approach.
We thought we were on Epitaph and it turned out to be this one. Really nice climbing until you miss the traverse to the second anchor and launch in Sedona 1st ascent territory tearing off 40lb blocks left and right putting in cams that wouldn't hold a hat (had plenty of Epitaph gear...). A bail anchor consisting of an Orange TCU and 4.5 Camalot awaits the first person to bring up a set of large stoppers to bulid a bail anchor in the same spot to rap to the true anchors.