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Wild Wild West - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
12 draws + pro to #4.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Park at Cowpies Trail up Schnebly Hill Road across from the east end of the Flying Buttress. Watch for a low contour left along the base of the Flying Butress and continue until below the Teapot. The first pitch begins just below the left side of the teapot. Pitch 1: 12 bolt sport pitch almost has a crux for every bolt (5.10-) Pitch 2: is a beautiful splitter corner to the West notch(5.9). Pitch 3: the route wanders east across ledges on the north face to just past the eastern notch, belay at small pine tree. (5.2) Pitch 4: traverse up and back west to the rising face, clip a bolt and traverse right to the north face, belay on ledge. (5.7) Pitch 5: final pitch has crazy exposure as you climb past 5 or 6 bolts traversing under the west roof to the summit on the south side(5.11a) rap off with one 60m. Location: Teapot Spout- west of the pot,handle, technicolor corner and arch enemy. east of skyline route, pope's dick, queen victoria, pointed dome, 100ft left of where Miami once was (this giant megaton flake fell off the winter of 06-07). The scar is plainly visible!

Descent Options:

rap with one 60m

Submitted by: markguycan on 2009-10-05
Last Modified: 2010-01-23
Views: 1063
Route ID: 101777

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2009-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good climbing and great exposure

The rock is fairly good for sedona; climbing is classic Burcham. The traversing pitches make the day interesting and the last pitch is the money shot. Hard and thought-provoking; fairly difficult for 11a.

Added: 2009-10-12