Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
12 draws + pro to #4.
Park at Cowpies Trail up Schnebly Hill Road across from the east end of the Flying Buttress. Watch for a low contour left along the base of the Flying Butress and continue until below the Teapot. The first pitch begins just below the left side of the teapot.
Pitch 1: 12 bolt sport pitch almost has a crux for every bolt (5.10-)
Pitch 2: is a beautiful splitter corner to the West notch(5.9).
Pitch 3: the route wanders east across ledges on the north face to just past the eastern notch, belay at small pine tree. (5.2)
Pitch 4: traverse up and back west to the rising face, clip a bolt and traverse right to the north face, belay on ledge. (5.7)
Pitch 5: final pitch has crazy exposure as you climb past 5 or 6 bolts traversing under the west roof to the summit on the south side(5.11a)
rap off with one 60m.
Location: Teapot Spout- west of the pot,handle, technicolor corner and arch enemy. east of skyline route, pope's dick, queen victoria, pointed dome,
100ft left of where Miami once was (this giant megaton flake fell off the winter of 06-07). The scar is plainly visible!
rap with one 60m
Submitted by: markguycan on 2009-10-05
Last Modified: 2010-01-23
Route ID: 101777
The rock is fairly good for sedona; climbing is classic Burcham. The traversing pitches make the day interesting and the last pitch is the money shot. Hard and thought-provoking; fairly difficult for 11a.