Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Jake Dayley, Mark Geikenjoyner, Mike Knarzer
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
doubles to #4camalot
just left up the "bowling alley" from Turkish Bride on Super Crack Tower. traverse from the left to the 1st bolt about 20ft (easy) then past 4 more bolts up and right to the base of the window (5.10uous) P2: Awesome! stem past 2 bolts then small gear to the top of the chimney and follow hand crack up the North side (5.10 Wild) to window belay, P3: long pitch with widening and steepening crack to short face and summit anchors.
Submitted by: markguycan on 2008-05-21
Last Modified: 2008-06-19
Route ID: 93860
One of the best spire climbs near Sedona. The approach is a pleasant shaded affair on mostly trail until you leave the wash. With all the approach beta out there, it is really simple. Leave the main wash for the wash between Lotus and Supercrack Towers to the base of the route. The climb has a nice remote feel compared to others in Sedona. The first pitch is all bolted with the crux being a short traverse at the top with a bit of exposure. The 2nd pitch is fantastic, turning the chimney out to the west from full on stem to jam then up a nice finger/hand crack. The last pitch is wide, the chockstone mentioned here and there is gone, thus a bit more true off width technique. Arm bar to heel hook is what I used. Took 1 5 and 3 4's and placed them all on this pitch. Fit enough that carrying that extra weight does not affect me, so why not.
thankyou Jake for for putting up a good first pitch, Thankyou both Jake and Kole for your vision and sharing! Thankyou Mike for the good belay and company! I'm sure this isn't the last time I'll do this route!