Right at top of trail, look up and awe. Three great rest ledges follow the overhanging prow up the first anchors, dont let it fool you thought, this route is very difficult. It requires the whole body in cooperation with itself, no move is straightforward, it almost has a very traditional feel, using lots of drop knees, slopers, jugs, long dynamic moves, short squatty moves. Locally known as the best sport climb around. First pitch is 5.12a, second pitch is 5.9+ One 60m rope will get you off 1st, you may want 2 ropes to get off summit, unless you rappel down to the 1st anchors and swing left and in,(I have done this) or walk off.
Submitted by: bootyhead on 2004-01-28
Route ID: 9501
This route (first pitch) was a long time redpoint attempt for me and when it all finally linked together it felt awesome. I would highly recommend the Red Lizzard, it has some real different moves on it that require different beta for many different people. This is probably still one of my favorite climbs. Second pitch is less than desirable, except for the exposure.