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Alley Cat - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
G
1
13 bolts and 2 fixed ring anchors. About 80'
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

The start is kind of loose but fairly easy going, but its all worth it when you get to the overhanging dish and all the jugs that follow. Classic Sedona sport climb.

Submitted by: alleycat on 2008-11-04
Views: 1325
Route ID: 9901

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: FloydLloyd on 2008-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Long and Cold

Short approach. Cold, long, and sustained face climbing. The route is rated G but there's a point or two at the bottom where you don't want to fall because of the ledges you can hit on your way down (a friend of my suffered a head injury that way). A great route when it's too hot out to climb anything else, because of how shaded the route and the canyon are (which makes it a poor winter route). The route starts off easy (except for a few spots) and gets increasingly harder as the jugs start turning into crimper and tiny finger-jams. I felt that the last few meters of climbing until you clip the anchors was the crux (you could get pretty pumped if you don't climb efficiently through the good holds). If you climb from the ground-up, clipping the anchors is really dicey. You just have to find something to grab (I used a two-finger lock) and hold your balance. A few longer quickdraws or runners help the rope off of the rock and running straight. All the hardware looks bomber and a 60 m rope easily made the rappel. A great climb overall. I would definitely recommend it. I got a hang dog accent from falling when trying to clip the anchors, so I'll have to go back for the redpoint.

Added: 2008-11-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sailorboy on 2004-12-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sustained

Another cool Sedona sport climb, the loose part at the bottom reminds you your in Sedona. I really enjoyed the exceptional length of this climb compared to others in the area. I remember it being very cold when I redpointed this climb, it gets a lot of shade so don't go in December.

Witnessed by: Dad
Added: 2004-12-22