Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Mark & Stacy Egan
A sloid rack of Cams (Nothing smaller than fingers) and a few bigger nuts.
This route is just left of the origional 5.7 route. The 1st pitch is a fun 5.8 climb with solid belay station in a bush. The 2nd pitch 5.7 wanders over easy terrain and banks climbers right over a series of blocks. I placed 2 pieces of gear. The 3rd pitch is where you earn your wings as you climb inside a 60 foot, flaring 5.9 chinmey 3 feet wide. A small chock stone is in the back, but good luck getting to it. We lost a runner and biner because the leaders was leaner than the follower. A small ledge at 30 feet will give you a rest, then push to the end. Keep heading up to the top rap station.
Rap strainght down from the Southern top rap station, to a lower set of anchors. This lower set was made in early 2009 by equalizing a lassoed rock and bush. A shiney "Bad Bolt" will lead you to yet another set below, after that your on the ground. A grow
Submitted by: kevinhansen on 2009-06-04
Route ID: 99880
We spent 11 hours car to car, and only 6 hours climbing. I remember saying, I'll never go back. But I'm already thinking about doing another route. mountain project dot com has real good info too. 4 liters of water should do it. Leave 1 in the car, 1 at the base of the fixed line, and 2 while on the tower.
The best thing that could happen to this tower is for someone to rap bolt a set of rap anchors every 30 meters down the North face. That way tourists could photo your decent from Point Imperial, you'd be rapping in the shade, and you'd only need one 60 meter rope to do the tower. I noticed a growing number of new rap anchors in bushes on the South face. This is not good and can just clog the southern face with climbers and rappellers. The approach is the crux fo show.. Leather gloves, carrharts, and old gore-tex coat make it nicer. Good Luck!! And watch out for afternoon thunderstorms.