P1-climb left side of a mini pillar on the north end of the east face, then up discontinuous cracks to good ledge. P2- move belay to the left then climb the steep right diagonalling crack (mostly hands, some OW) to a bulge and flare then belay off a good pine tree. P3 short easy OW to finger and hand cracks to bulge then 4th class to a short bit of unprotected 5-easy face to summit on North face. crux pitch is #2 although all three are good pitches. the hard part is the approach...
rap w/ one 70m down the regular south face route.
Submitted by: markguycan on 2009-06-27
Route ID: 87786
Sounds like the previous description did a different first pitch. The FA took a thin finger crack on the lower rock that required a step to another finger crack. You then move the belay Left on the ledge to the big pine and climb the obvious offwidth to hands. My recollection is that the fantastic part of the whole adventure is getting out of the OW and into the hands over the bulge. Awesome exposure like all GC climbs.
This first pitch was probably the technical crux. The move between cracks was pretty hard, balancy, no pro, probably could use a bolt (hence my R, not too mention the remoteness and general nature of Coc rock). Maybe 5.11. I grade it 5.11 because you should probably be climbing at that grade to be on the climb. Certainly P2 is the classic one but the entrance exam was stiff. We never walked further left so don't know about that start. (Unless previous discussion meant to say move belay left.)
My recollection was the approach was pretty trivial for a Canyon summit. But I do recall my wife and her friend not being very happy with it.
North Rim descents are almost always brush fests.
BTW - we rapped right down Pegasus. As I recall, two raps, one to the big tree and one to the ground from there. Certainly we had two ropes and they would have been 50m back then.
1st - Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley. Tim Coats and Bobbi Bensman did the second the next spring I believe. I don't think they were quite as enthused as we were.