Jugs, pockets, under clings, crimp jugs, and even a sloper. This line has some fun holds to pull on.
Located just to the right of the popular Swiss Arete and adjacent to Heart Shaped Box.
Like a lot of routes on this wall, this route starts with a boulder problem. After the bouldery but fun start, there's a couple buckets to recover on. Moving off the buckets, the climbing becomes pocketed with some pockets being great and some being less than great. Find the good pockets then make one last difficult move to gain footing on the ledge by the last bolt. From here easier climbing leads to the anchors, traverse the ledge left a little before heading up to the anchors.
Don't let the back wall intimidate you, you never get near it and of course you don't use it. You'll want to stick clip the first bolt and maybe even the second bolt to start the route.
Have your belayer lower you to clean. To minimize the chance of swinging into the plants; from the third bolt, clean the draw off the second bolt before you clean the third. Swing from there, it's not as bad as it looks.
Submitted by: climball on 2011-08-30
Last Modified: 2011-09-02
Route ID: 109772