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Sullivan Canyon

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About Sullivan Canyon:

Sullivan's Canyon (known locally as Sullies) was formed by the Verde River as it cut an eastward path through the hills and plains north of the town of Chino Valley. The vertical dark brown basalt is split with innumerable cracks and the faces are heavily pocketed. This is a no bolt area so come prepared to trad lead or top rope. Good sunny winter climbing area! There are two sections of the canyon visited by climbers: UPPER SULLIVAN'S CYN~Is primarily a TR area due to shorter hiegth of cliffs. Anchors can be set up just about anywhere among the boulders lining the rim. LOWER SULLIVAN'S CYN~This is the lead area. The vast majority of routes are found on the sunny north rim and on the shadey south rim are a number of real classics. Most routes here have bolted lower offs at the tops because the walk offs were deemed to be too dangerous owing to the loose talus slopes hanging abovee the routes. Beyond the standard rack you might want to carry Lowe Balls, RP's, and a 2nd set of cams (micro to OW).
Nearest town or city: Prescott
Directions: UPPER SULLIVAN'S CYN~Drive N from Prescott on hwy 89, turn right onto the southern end Old Hwy 89 and look for the place where the road goes over a bridge over the canyon. Park in the obvious pullout on the E side before crossing the bridge. Hike E along S rim till you find a good place to rap (just about anywhere) or con't a bit farther to a place where you can hike down. LOWER SULLIVAN'S CYN~From Prescott drive N on hwy 89 to Paulden and turn right onto the northern end of OLD HWY 89 (across from newer gas station) Shortly after this turn immediately left onto Sweet Valley Rd (No sign, dirt). There may be "No Trespassing" signs up, but these are generally ignored. In one mile turn right onto dirt road (just before a white picket fence) Stay on the most travelled route for 2.3 to the parking area (stay left at gate on right, then tend right). Road can be rough but usually present few problems for 2 wheel drive vehicles. An obvious trail heads W from here until the canyon comes into view, begin looking for trails dropping into the canyon. The earliest ones will lead to the eastern end of the cliff band which has a trail traversing the entire base. A later drop in point farther W more easily accesses the western portion of the cliff. Cliffs on the south rim can be reach by crossing the canyon. Access: This is State Trust Land and tehnically people entering the area need to have a permit (although I suspect most do not). Call the AZ Land Dept in Prescott (928)778-9567, Phx (928) 542-4631 or Flagstaff (520)774-1425.
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