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Three Star Nightmare - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
11 bolts, 4 bolt/chain rap (2 ropes)
130
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 2.67/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

This fairly recent, long 2-star route put up by Marty Karabin can be found at the left end of the right wall of boulder canyon following just to the left of some obvious black water streaks up 130' to top. Depart trail directly below up short slope to base of wall, then follow left angling granite cobble ramp up to its top. Route is hard to spot, but large eye bolt for belayer (wear a helmet) is just below and right of start at very top of ramp. Climb looks lame from directly beneath, but turns out to be very fun and cool up thru large granite blocks, chunks, and flakes. With an average of 12' between bolts, route can be hard to follow between hidden bolts. Just stay straight up, then a gradually arc to the left near top and into cave.

Descent Options:

Requires a two rope rappel or there's an easy CL 3 walkoff.

Submitted by: fritzski on 2008-02-18
Views: 1272
Route ID: 45808

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: on_rope on 2006-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route!

killer pod cave with great views!

Added: 2010-02-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2008-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars REALLY FUN ROUTE!

I used to think the Monk was the best route on Camelback until I got on Marty's 3 Star Nightmare. AWESOME! Great views from the top too. A little crumbly but not terrible. Pretty well protected and nice cave for top belay. We di the walk off - better than carrying a second rope up for the rap.

Added: 2008-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sun2stone on 2004-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars with Fritz

anchor is large body size cove 3 bolts
2 line rapp

Added: 2006-12-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: secretagent on 2005-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-03-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: fritzski on 2004-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Much better climb than it looks from below. A totally different feel from other climbs at Camelback on large granite features. Very cool and adventurous climb for the grade.

Added: 2004-05-14