This fairly recent, long 2-star route put up by Marty Karabin can be found at the left end of the right wall of boulder canyon following just to the left of some obvious black water streaks up 130' to top. Depart trail directly below up short slope to base of wall, then follow left angling granite cobble ramp up to its top. Route is hard to spot, but large eye bolt for belayer (wear a helmet) is just below and right of start at very top of ramp. Climb looks lame from directly beneath, but turns out to be very fun and cool up thru large granite blocks, chunks, and flakes. With an average of 12' between bolts, route can be hard to follow between hidden bolts. Just stay straight up, then a gradually arc to the left near top and into cave.
Requires a two rope rappel or there's an easy CL 3 walkoff.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2008-02-18
Route ID: 45808
I used to think the Monk was the best route on Camelback until I got on Marty's 3 Star Nightmare. AWESOME! Great views from the top too. A little crumbly but not terrible. Pretty well protected and nice cave for top belay. We di the walk off - better than carrying a second rope up for the rap.