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Cameltoe - 5.11b popular

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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J. Herbert, M. Rangel
Rock (Sport)
PG13
5 bolts
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Black 60' chunk of granite slightly overhung. Solid face to big reach past large toe (crux); well protected. Footholds have broken off at the crux; use caution passing the toe.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2005-11-28
Last Modified: 2012-08-13
Views: 2101
Route ID: 23102

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7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kubok13 on 2014-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2014-12-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sonso45 on 2009-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Key foothold broke

I think the route is much much harder now that a key right foothold at the Toe's undercling broke. I will talk to Jeff and see about changing the bolts.

Meantime, the new crux beta (for me) is to work a knee bar up and right, sidepull w/left and make a big reach to the jug (I have a positive 4 ape index). I missed it twice but clipped the bolt before the big reach; kneebar helps to clip securely.

Added: 2009-03-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: HeadKase on 2009-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Couldn't get it this time

This one is a little (no pun intended) out of my reach. My forearms were burning pretty good when going for the 4th bolt that is just on top of the overhang. Have to get the forearms built up and I'll try this one again.

Added: 2009-01-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tstuela on 2009-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars got to remember the beta

Took a look around the corner to find a feasible climb. The crux took us for a run. What a reach! Nice work of bolt placement, but a lead fall can send you into the ledge below.

Added: 2009-01-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: laurelja on 2006-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars correction

The sling is from the third bolt, but big committment is up to the fifth bolt, little spicy to hang on and reach the clip

Added: 2006-12-19

... Read all 7 ascent notes