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Standard Route - 5.5

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
bolts, pitons and single rack of cams, nuts, hexes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Ascend the dark gully on the left side of the east face (you will be crossing the entire east face as you drive to the wilderness boundary). Walk to near center of wall, start pitch one on right side of the toe of rock in the gully. Continue on right side passing couple of bolts to belay. Third pitch heads up the center of the gully on easy rock; watch out for loose rock and cholla buds. Continue up and right for a couple more pitches/bolted belays to top out on gully. I think the final pitch is the 5.5 crux. Walk north/right towards summit. When you reach far wall, 4th class up and left along ledges along north wall of gully until you have to belay about 30' below top of the wall; look for hidden pitons. Rope up and this short pitch puts you on top of a spacious ledge. Walk north and up to top.

Descent Options:

Double rope rappels, watch out when rappelling for tangled ropes and cholla buds.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2011-11-09
Views: 733
Route ID: 110201

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2003-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars happy birthday Steve

Easy, runout and loose; did I mention cholla buds? It wanders to the top of a great formation. A long easy day for two but many folks get slowed down in a crowd. Scene of many epics.

Added: 2011-11-09