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South Crack - 5.3

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
2
bolt and standard rack, huge glued eye rings for anchors at the top of each summit.
150
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.29/5
  Rock Quality 3.86/5
  Scenery 4.29/5
  Fun Factor 3.86/5

Description:

1st pitch starts at gulley/chimney below SE corner of Pinnacle Peak to sundeck boulder; 2nd pitch starts at sundeck boulder up blocks L of wide crack to wide crack leading to highest point.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2003-11-16
Views: 1316
Route ID: 44501

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RyanJames1984 on 2010-01-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars South Crack

The "easiest" climb I have ever done. NOT!!! More challenging than 5.3.

Added: 2010-01-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chief1210 on 2009-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars South Crack

Classic PP route

Added: 2009-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: ClimbinorJeepin on 2008-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars my 1st multi pitch

1st multi pitch

Added: 2009-01-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scotchie on 2008-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun again and again

I have climbed this 4 times so far, and it continues to thrill me every time. It was my first multi-pitch lead (combined with Birthday Party and Sillouette). I have taken both beginners and experts here, including one party of 7. I took my girlfriend (now fiancee) here on her first multipitch climb. It is everything that an easy trad climb should be, with a mixture of many different techniques (which can often be used interchangably), gorgeous views, outstanding and easy protection, and a thrilling rappel at the end. All within Scottsdale city limits!

South Crack was probably put up during a time when 5.3 meant a bit more than it does to most climbers today. But in no way do you have to be a 5.9 trad climber! I first did this when I was a 5.7 trad climber, and it seemed easy but a lot of fun. Now that I am a 5.9 trad climber, it still seems easy but a lot of fun. I would recommend the new climber to review the "Crack Climbing" section of "Freedom of the Hills", as this climb requires vastly different techniques than you would typically learn in the rock gym or sport crag. But none of these techniques need to be mastered to climb this old-school 5.3 local-area classic!


Added: 2008-04-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: rockjockrob on 2003-01-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars first time to the top

lots of fun, easy crack plug and chug

Added: 2007-09-07

... Read all 11 ascent notes