Skip to Content

Schmotem Pole - 5.10b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Geir H., Marcy M.
Rock (Trad)
standard rack with doubles of #2, #3 Camalots; one #4, #5 will help protect a wide but easy crack on pitch 1.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This tower is located in the center of the east side formations. Follow the trail up from the stream crossing and go left at the first junction to the base of the route behind an 80' tower. On the southern end of the west face of the tower, start at a crack system leading toward overhanging offwidth. P1) Climb the crack system past two bolts. Instead of climbing the difficult overhanging offwidth, take the crack on the right (10b) and then step left to the main crack system on easier ground (5.8). You’ll arrive at a cave (The Shmotem Hole); enter it and you’ll find the first bolted anchor (5.10b, 110’) P2) Climb up through the ceiling of the cave to a ledge on the face. Clip a bolt and climb an airy exposed chimney past another bolt to an anchor (5.8, 50’) P3) Climb a short easy 5th class pitch up and right on easy ground to a 2 bolt anchor. This helps keep rope drag minimal (5 easy, 30') P4) Step across from the belay and clip the bolt on the northwest corner of the Shmotem Pole. Move up four feet, then traverse directly left about eight feet to a ledge under an overhanging corner. Pull through this (crux) and follow the path of least resistance to the summit (5.10a/b, 90’).

Descent Options:

Rappel to the top of pitch 2 (about 100') then double-rope rappel to the ground (about 160').

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2010-03-23
Last Modified: 2011-11-23
Views: 768
Route ID: 103897

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hallelujah, finally crossed lower devil's canyon!

The Schmotem Pole is taller and more involved than it's neighbor, the Totem Pole. Fun adventure in a great setting, I loved the route. Just needs some caution cause it is new and still in process of being cleaned. Goes with the rhyolite territory.

Added: 2010-03-23