Route starts in left facing dihedral just right of Long Lead and @25' left of Glory Road. P1: Strenuous move up into layback dihedral. Trend right at top for best options/pro. Belay from corner above block with slings. P2: Continue up into dihedral with wide double cracks on right side. Use both initially, but trend to right crack till crux where it becomes offwidth up to pocketed face. Continue up face and look for fixed piton on left deep in narrow dihedral. Gain ledge with with two belay bolts. From here finish same as P3 and P4 of Long Lead.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2006-03-09
Route ID: 33401
This is my favorite climb so far on this wall. P1 is just a blast with the incredible liebacking. (some moron decided to filtch the worthless old biners that were on the rap slings). P2 moves from stemming finger crack and pockets to great jams deep in steep offwidth. P3 Fun chimney and dicey exposed move out of it at the top. P4 is a total waste of effort only to be rewarded by having to make a nervy downclimb - just rap out the back.