Skip to Content

The Long Lead - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Premier Sponsor:
Frank Hill & Larry Treiber mid 70's
Rock
gear to #3.5 camalot, medium stoppers especially helpful on pitch 2.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

P1: On the left side of Barks Canyon Wall, locate the short shallow open-book seam left of the obvious large left facing dihedral (Big Bruno). Climb up this awkward feature to a nice belay below an overhanging crack. P2: Step up and right to gain beautiful dihedral. Climb this until below large crack with overhang. Climb around this on the right face and continue up to a big belay ledge with two bolts. P3: Climb up the obvious chimney (30'-40'). Stay outside and pass chockstone w/ webbing and emerge on top of large chockstone directly below huge boulder chockstone blocking the chimney. From here stem wide left out onto face and make some dicey moves to top of overhead boulder. Belay from webbing around chockstone. P4: Numerous very easy, but unprotectable options exist to continue up chimney to top. Not even worth the effort since you then have to downclimb north to the Glory Road rap anchors. A much better option is to finish P3 and walk straight back in same chimney to its end where it forms a gap to the back (west) side with a rap anchor slung from a chockstone overhead. The walk off back to the base is a bit convoluted, but trail is fairly easy to follow. About 20-25 minutes is needed to get back to the base. A fun, worthwhile route. The dihedral on pitch 2 is classic.

Submitted by: fritzski on 2006-03-09
Views: 1034
Route ID: 32564

11 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sun2stone on 2012-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars my Guide Route

first brought up Fritz on 3/9/2006. Many times since, 4 leads this season, my Fav.
P1 trick hidden left hand crux at 25ft forarm on clean cut angled block - a must find pocket !
P2 awell protected seam in the dihedral except, you must run throught the crux at top 10ft until protect at the edge.
P3 boulder at chimmney protect rope pinch with old web. enjoy the changing facewall move to finish.
No P4, rap at back of squeeze to Mystic grotto.
Hike in light and ready to top out , return to TH via key slot exit.
Do not return to base.

Added: 2012-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chief1210 on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool wall

with brad

Added: 2011-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2011-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

pitch 2 is money

Added: 2011-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RyanJames1984 on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Long Lead

Fun route. Great views. Remote. Good rock.

Added: 2010-11-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: djthx on 2009-12-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool 2nd pitch

fun way to spend the day. We did the strok it gently finish Run out. We put in rap bolts at the very top. you can desend with two ropes. first rap in to weird alcove walk north tord the drop off more rap bolts here. rap to base of clif. Dont walk down. if you rap you can do two routes in a day!!


Added: 2010-04-17

... Read all 11 ascent notes