P1: On the left side of Barks Canyon Wall, locate the short shallow open-book seam left of the obvious large left facing dihedral (Big Bruno). Climb up this awkward feature to a nice belay below an overhanging crack. P2: Step up and right to gain beautiful dihedral. Climb this until below large crack with overhang. Climb around this on the right face and continue up to a big belay ledge with two bolts. P3: Climb up the obvious chimney (30'-40'). Stay outside and pass chockstone w/ webbing and emerge on top of large chockstone directly below huge boulder chockstone blocking the chimney. From here stem wide left out onto face and make some dicey moves to top of overhead boulder. Belay from webbing around chockstone. P4: Numerous very easy, but unprotectable options exist to continue up chimney to top. Not even worth the effort since you then have to downclimb north to the Glory Road rap anchors. A much better option is to finish P3 and walk straight back in same chimney to its end where it forms a gap to the back (west) side with a rap anchor slung from a chockstone overhead. The walk off back to the base is a bit convoluted, but trail is fairly easy to follow. About 20-25 minutes is needed to get back to the base. A fun, worthwhile route. The dihedral on pitch 2 is classic.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2006-03-09
Route ID: 32564
first brought up Fritz on 3/9/2006. Many times since, 4 leads this season, my Fav. P1 trick hidden left hand crux at 25ft forarm on clean cut angled block - a must find pocket ! P2 awell protected seam in the dihedral except, you must run throught the crux at top 10ft until protect at the edge. P3 boulder at chimmney protect rope pinch with old web. enjoy the changing facewall move to finish. No P4, rap at back of squeeze to Mystic grotto. Hike in light and ready to top out , return to TH via key slot exit. Do not return to base.
fun way to spend the day. We did the strok it gently finish Run out. We put in rap bolts at the very top. you can desend with two ropes. first rap in to weird alcove walk north tord the drop off more rap bolts here. rap to base of clif. Dont walk down. if you rap you can do two routes in a day!!