Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Phoenix Area : Superstition Mountains : Suction Gully : Grandfather Hobgoblin
Grandfather Hobgoblin - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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FA: Chuck Graff, Fred Hill 1972
FFA: Larry Treiber (rope solo) 1976
Rock (Trad)
4
standard trad rack, hexes and lowe tri-cams, quickdraws and slings
300
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Description:
Ever steepening, this route gets harder the higher you go. The pitch 3, 9+ variation should not be skipped. When you reach the highest spire on the north side of Suction Gulley, look for a couple of troughs coming to the ground from a notch on the left side of the spire; start in the right trough in a tricky dihedral. Start behind a tree and head for the notch. You can combine the first two pitches to reach the notch. The third pitch goes due left about 25' to a crack system heading northeast up the arete. (Variation: head straight up from the notch on 5.9 face with one bolt; joins regular route above). The fourth pitch heads left to a thin crack to reach the first bolt. Work hard through the 5.9 crux face (great rock) spiraling above a down sloping ledge and finish on runout slab to top.Descent Options:
double ropes to south and start of route.
Submitted by: ocotillo on 2002-11-24
Last Modified: 2010-02-01
Views: 1048
Route ID: 27643
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7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
none
yeah, the last pitch is money
Added: 2011-01-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Wow! Heady climbing at the finish.
We did it as two parties of two. Nice day and warm to boot. The 5.9 part was ok, the final runout was a tad exhilarating.
Added: 2010-01-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Linked p1/p2. Bolts on p4 are interesting. the 1st one is labeled "Bad Bolt" At the 2nd bolt I went straight up despite what the guidebook said (something about going left). The 3rd bolt was too far from where I was (and would have caused crazy rope drag anyway) so I skipped it. Easy climbing above so not a big deal. The approach and descent in Suction Gully realllly sucks!
Added: 2008-04-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hated the approach and descent cuz it was really steep and crumbly
Fun climb. Proud accomplishment.
Added: 2007-11-12
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Combine the first and second pitch into one! Running the second and third together is one hell of an experiment in rope drag, but a great mountaineering belay. sling the bad bolt on pitch 4 and zig zag up it, it's solid!
Witnessed by: joshklingbeil
Added: 2004-09-16
Added: 2004-09-16
