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Grandfather Hobgoblin - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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FA: Chuck Graff, Fred Hill 1972 FFA: Larry Treiber (rope solo) 1976
Rock (Trad)
4
standard trad rack, hexes and lowe tri-cams, quickdraws and slings
300
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Ever steepening, this route gets harder the higher you go. The pitch 3, 9+ variation should not be skipped. When you reach the highest spire on the north side of Suction Gulley, look for a couple of troughs coming to the ground from a notch on the left side of the spire; start in the right trough in a tricky dihedral. Start behind a tree and head for the notch. You can combine the first two pitches to reach the notch. The third pitch goes due left about 25' to a crack system heading northeast up the arete. (Variation: head straight up from the notch on 5.9 face with one bolt; joins regular route above). The fourth pitch heads left to a thin crack to reach the first bolt. Work hard through the 5.9 crux face (great rock) spiraling above a down sloping ledge and finish on runout slab to top.

Descent Options:

double ropes to south and start of route.

Submitted by: ocotillo on 2002-11-24
Last Modified: 2010-02-01
Views: 1254
Route ID: 27643

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7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2011-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

yeah, the last pitch is money

Added: 2011-01-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2010-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow! Heady climbing at the finish.

We did it as two parties of two. Nice day and warm to boot. The 5.9 part was ok, the final runout was a tad exhilarating.

Added: 2010-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars _

Linked p1/p2. Bolts on p4 are interesting. the 1st one is labeled "Bad Bolt" At the 2nd bolt I went straight up despite what the guidebook said (something about going left). The 3rd bolt was too far from where I was (and would have caused crazy rope drag anyway) so I skipped it. Easy climbing above so not a big deal. The approach and descent in Suction Gully realllly sucks!

Added: 2008-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: raymondjeffrey on 2007-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hated the approach and descent cuz it was really steep and crumbly

Fun climb. Proud accomplishment.

Added: 2007-11-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: djpuckle on 2004-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Combine the first and second pitch into one! Running the second and third together is one hell of an experiment in rope drag, but a great mountaineering belay. sling the bad bolt on pitch 4 and zig zag up it, it's solid!

Witnessed by: joshklingbeil
Added: 2004-09-16

... Read all 7 ascent notes