Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Joe Theobald, Jon Biemer, Doug Black 1972
bolts, med nuts, single rack camalots (linkcams helpful) .5 to #3 (#5 optional), Lowe Tri cams, long slings, quick draws
Hike up Siphon Draw trail until you reach North Buttress then head up and left on rocky slope. As you enter Suction Gully head underneath the huge boulder at the bottom of the North Buttress (on your right).
P1: Climb right along sloping ledge to the huge boulder; comes in from far left or boulder directly up (5.6 pg-13). Either belay on top of huge boulder (recommended to reduce rope drag) or continue climbing up and right to edge of roof (linkcams fit great in a pocket) and head left to the blunt arete. Two old bolts wander up easy bulges on a flakey face. The old first pitch continues past a newer rappel anchor; Some stop here to reduce rope drag. Either way move left to easy groove and belay at two bolt belay between main wall and small pinnacle with belay hole. (180', 5.6 pg-13)
Pitch 2: Climb up and right on run out face (2 bolts) to below the obvious chimney/crack, step right along the buttress and look for the third bolt and some protection. As you approach the belay ledge, stay low and traverse to easier ground just below the anchor. A nice ledge provides some shelter and rest before heading directly right into the huge chimney. (150', 5.5 pg-13)
Pitch 3: traverse right into the huge chimney and climb this long pitch until you can reach a ledge on the right side, just before the crack tops out. Look on the west side of the big boulder for the anchor.(5.6, 150')
Pitch 4: step down and across to the main wall where some crumbly looking un-protected face moves with big huecos lead around and right of a crack (spider walk). Climb back into the crack after about 30' and aim for the hole at the top of the rock (100', 5.6 R).
Variation of P4 (recommended 5.7) is to climb the crack directly and avoid the crumbly face moves/spider walk. Good protection leads to a wide spot up high. If you don't have a #5 camalot, look for a thin crack way left below the wide crack (bring a long sling). Otherwise, it's easy OW move or two without protection.
If you reached the end of the route at the hole belay, you can add two more pitches to the actual summit.
P5: Climb out of the hole, turn right and up the leaning crack forming the pillar above the hole. Reach the fixed gear anchor and belay.
P6: Go left on easy ground to the final finger crack to the top of the spire. Build a gear anchor and downclimb after enjoying the view. Rap the rest of the route.
double ropes, bolted anchors except the last two above the Hole belay.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2003-02-05
Last Modified: 2014-12-28
Route ID: 31820
ah, I see a year to the day of Sonso. I too, just want to do the classics as a long time local. Yes, got rope drag,yes got route finding errors-climbed the short pinnacle P1 instead of gully behind-downclimbed/redue. The classicness comes from the shear drop and view into the Phoenix Valley. with AMC, Ron A and Kevin P
A few updates and additional beta for the route: • The top of ALL pitches now have great new solid anchors. • The anchors at the top of pitch 3 are on the south-west side of the large bolder at the top of the chimney (they are very hard to find if you don't know this) • Bring a large cam for pitch 4. I didn't have one big enough, but wished I did. Pitch 4 is the shortest pitch (90 feet). • Aside from P4 this climb is run-out. If you place a lot of gear then you will experience extreme rope-drag. We had serious drag with very minimal gear placement. • There are 5 great rappel stations (an extra 1 is halfway down pitch 1). When you rappel, keep in mind where your rope will hang. Leave your rope so that when you pull it you minimize the possibility of your rope sliding into potential hangup spots. • The pitch 4 anchors are 1,020ft (311 meters) above the siphon draw trail (I brought my rangefinder to get some exact distances).
I followed the description in the guide and never did find all the bolts. Replacements needed badly. The route is very runout, at least up to 40-50 feet between bolts at times, sparse natural protection, bring nuts, lowe tri cams and single rack cams. Place anything you can with long runners. The rock is generally ok, if not, you are probably off route. The second pitch trends up and generally right to the edge of the large crack and wanders up and left from there; found two bolts and one nut on this pitch. The finishing crack was good, sparse pro but not bad. All anchors ok now.