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South Face IV ** - 5.11b

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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1 Bolt,small to large nuts,Friends,and TCUs are very useful
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


Start far right (right of large dihedral system) at overhanging rock just left of small saguaro near base of wall. 1st Pitch: Climb loose face (5.7) over bulge and slightly left to small ledge and vertical crack. Climb crack to end , then traverce up and left past bolt (5.7) to wide crack. Follow crack to ledge and belay. 2nd Pitch: Climb right-arching crack (5.5) to ledge (with agave) just left of left facing dihedral (2 blot belay). 3rd Pitch: Climb left-facing dihedral to top (5.9) and ledge. Continue up face short ways, then right to another ledge (fixed piton). 4th Pitch: Surmount block above, then move right to steep face. Climb face to left-veering, small ramp (5.9R). Move left on ramp to gain right-veering hand crack. Climb crack to small ledge. At this point climb left -veering undercling and thin crack to bulge. Move up and right (5.10b) to more hospitable crack that leads to ledge (belay bolt). 5th Pitch: Climb thin crack above belay,then move left and up over small bulges (5.10a) to ledge. Traverse left and climb groove system to large ledge with saguaro. 6th Pitch Climb thin crack in left-facing dihedral just right of saguaro (5.11b), then continue on easier ground to large chockstone. Clear chockstone (5.6) to boulder encalve. Scramble 100 ft up gully systems to top. Hike North-Northwest.

Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2004-04-27
Views: 600
Route ID: 51214

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: djthx on 2010-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars You must be crazy or not no better to do this one

Made a video of our ascent. the video tells it all.
I Onsighted up to the forth pitch. we baild from there. I do want to go back with a bolt kit for some bolt replacment cheak out the video

Added: 2010-04-16