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Southeast Ridge III * - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
G
1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers, and A few hexes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This 7 Pitch route was put up in 1981 By Stan Mish and Terry Price. Hike up to the brushy corner to the right of the Southeast ridge.A 60m rope may be useful. 1st Pitch: Start off of pockets 5 feet to the right of the ridge. Crank up pockets (5.6) past a few small ledges to gain dihedral crack system above clear crack system and work up easy slab to a steeper short wall with crack. Work up crack (5.6) to ledge optional belay.2nd pitch:Work up class 3 wall becomes steep and belay.3rd pitch: Climb a right facing dihedral to the right of the ridge Through a series of steps to ledge with barrel cactus and Saguaro. 4th Pitch:Work up slabs and cracks to gain chimney work up chimney and clear chockstone via squeeze or if your fat your gonna have to go around (5.6).Don't get stuck! Belay on boulder ridden ledge.5th Pitch: Climb crack system to the left to gain ledge scramble up and left on ridge to steep face move left around face and back up and right to gain a short crack (5.7). We set up belay under the CRUX crack because of rope drag. Becareful if you do so because you have to climb a bit of face with no gear to gain crack. Pull crack to ledge. 6th Pitch: Climb steep arete (5.6R) you can get a friend in a crack on the left side of ridge at the start before the first move other than that you get no gear for 20 ft. Climb to high point and drop down next to chimney and belay. 7th Pitch: follow chimney and ramps for 50m. to ledge. At this point it's 3rd and 4th class to the top but its chossy and it's a good idea to stay roped up. Take 3rd class down and left to gain chossy chimney climb up to chockstones and stem around and scramble around tree and up to a crack and to the top. A little traverse to the north -northwest will get you to a short easy chimney.Down climb chimney and walk past 2 big dead trees climb back up easy terrain. a little bit more walking will get you to where the Odyssey Tops out.

Submitted by: continental on 2007-01-04
Last Modified: 2012-06-04
Views: 745
Route ID: 51210

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RyanJames1984 on 2009-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Carney

Good long route. Kind of adventurous. Rock is really good is some spots and not so good in others. Overall very fun.

Added: 2009-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: continental on 2006-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Wow, what a gnarly approach (and decent).

We got lost on approach, ran out of light right after the squeeze and had to bail out onto the parellel gully. START AT DAWN...

Witnessed by: Zouien
Added: 2006-04-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: grippedclimer on 2005-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

THis route is a total adventure. We started up a cool bulge to crack. Got off route up top and did some scarry hard moves (harder than 5.7) with bad gear and loose rock. We got a late start at 11 am and topped out at sunset. Almost had an epic but hiked out to Careny Springs wall in the dark and made it to the truck at 8:30 pm.

Added: 2005-12-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: joshklingbeil on 2004-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Started at 3pm. It got dark right after the classic 5.6 arete pitch. Led the rest out in the dark. Thanks for the free green alien.

Witnessed by: Djpuckle
Added: 2004-04-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: djpuckle on 2004-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The belay I set before the crux was off the biggest cam we brought, 3.5" I think? And the BIG hex, yea you know which one I mean. Another cam about thin hands size did good in there too. start early!

Witnessed by: Josh
Added: 2004-04-12