5 pitches up face and cracks A 1970s Classic put up by Larry Treiber and Frank Hill. 1st pitch:Start at boulder against wall and work up a crack to its end and head out left on face using TCUs in pockets and past two bolts to a two Bolt Belay.2nd Pitch: Goes up past a bolt and then works up and to the right in a thin crack Work up to 1 Bolt Belay. You can climb up 12 feet and put something in the crack to back it up 3rd Pitch: Goes up a crack and is 5.8 towards the top of the pitch takes good gear in crack utilize the pockets at the crux.And Then up to a 2 Bolt Belay 4th Pitch:Go up a liltle and then Hand traverse right to a ledge place gear in Diehedral with lots of runners like 3 48s and then Head up the ramp to the Left to keep it easy don't fall here! You May want to belay before the chimney due to rope drag. Pitch 5:After chimney Scramble to the left and head up easy ground up to a cactus.At this point go left and then up right to a notch the go throught a cave like tunnel to the top.
Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2004-06-23
Route ID: 50731
phew....after a long approach with every kind of sadistic Arizona plant.. made it to start of the Odyssey. Led up past old, old, old bolts...(just dont fall)... and a 5.8 (5.9 r) crack, to some manky older bolts at the top of P3. Dont even lean back on these...yikes. Started up P4 (like described)... right on a thin hands traverse up to a large, loose downsloping to the right ledge; with a 11ish looking brushy 20 foot no pro corner. Note an interesting bolted old route to the right, over a buldge with tattered slings. Thought about striking up the corner.. removed some of the brush in the crack to expose gear placements (flaring).. hmmm not in the mood for a first assent?... down climbed to look around the left side of the sloping ledge to see no route up a polished steep shallow, no pro, dihedral?? Had the topo from Sups select.. hmmm.. two ways to go here?? Could not make head nor tails.. getting late in the day.... bailed and left gear.... not a steller day. Climber beware and good luck. Did pile some cool carins on the way out...hope will help the next party. Thank god for cold beer. Thanks Catherine for the paitence and good cheer.
THis route seemed harder than 5.8, I guess I am just a wuss. The frist pitch would seem less scary with new bolts. I lead the 1st, 2nd and about 25 feet of the third pitch in 1 pitch. My buddy did the last part of pitch 3. I lead up to the right facing dihedral and set a belay as the rope drag and sharp ledge got me kind of gripped. My partner lead that portion up to the bottom of the chimney slot. I lead the chimney to the top. The chimney is not that much of a chimney, more of a large offwidth - very awkward.