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The Dutchmans Gold 5.9 R - 5.9

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Small to large nuts, Friends, 3 fixed pitons
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Start at east face proper at base of only obvious, right-facing dihedral system. This system, when seen from afar will be almostdirectly underneath a prominent chimney system (begun by a largebay tree) high on the wall. When at the base, the dihedral system will be just south of a prominent roof high on the wall. if one looks carefully, a fixed piton will be seen about 50 feet up on the system's left flank. 1st pitch: Step off boulder and climb loose face (above overhang) left and up into an obscure crack (R). Continue up crack to fixed piton, then continue up weekness to another fixed piton. Continue up over some loose blocks until possible to traverse right to ledge. Moveup corner system to fixed piton, then traverse left to small tree. Continue up to broken ledges, then climb another 20 feet to another ledge system. This pitch is a full 165 feet. 2nd pitch: Surmount large, loose-looking flake on north side of ledge, then continue in crack to ledge. Follow hand crack to near its end, then traverse into gully system. Follow gully system to belay underneath bay tree. 3rd pitch: Climb face south of bay tree to ledge, then continue up low-angled face until a traverse is possible to base of obvious chimney. 4th pitch: Climb chimney (5.4 R) to ledge, then another short chimney to the top. A very short scramble west leads to the summit.

Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2004-09-14
Views: 963
Route ID: 59461