Really fun classic four pitch climb. Pitch 1: Great open book finger jam and layback crack (5.6 / 2 fp) to 1 bolt belay ledge. Pitch 2: Traverse right to obvious dihedral topped with overhang(5.7) and face to big ledge. Pitch 3: Easy pitch traversing further right and down to crack up to large belay ledge. Pitch 4: Very fun chimney to summit and 2 bolt belay/rap. Make short single rope 65' rappel to west and hike south and east back around cliff to base.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2003-03-11
Route ID: 33400
One of my first routes after a 6 week wrist injury layoff. As others have said, stout for the grade. Thin p2 traverse across and down into the chimney/stem section requires a good head b/c you have to forego pro so your second won't take a nosedive. P3 I placed only two pieces in the easy crack near the end--I do not know where one would put reliable gear during the traverse over face and loose blocks. Convoluted walkoff; as you finally come round the formation, stay high against the cliff and avoid the urge to travel downslope and across--it doesn't work!
Climbed this with Melisssa. She led pitch 1 (hardest in my opinion), and I led pitches 2-4. I loved this route. Sustained, fun climbing, with different skills (crack, face/traverse, and chimney). Gorgeous day with a great view of Weaver's Needle from the summit! Used cams, nuts, and some hexes. Small tricams in pockets protect the traverses. Routefinding on the long descent was the crux!
Edited to add: At start of P3 go straight across the face rather than up and then back down again. It protects well, isn't any harder than the traverse on P2, and is a lot more fun!